Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Q&A: The Christmas Markets of Europe - In Transit Blog - NYTimes.com
Q&A: The Christmas Markets of Europe - In Transit Blog - NYTimes.com: "Q&A: The Christmas Markets of Europe"
Friday, November 20, 2009
Rick Steves' Europe | Norway: Touring is expensive but the ambience is free | Seattle Times Newspaper
Rick Steves' Europe | Norway: Touring is expensive but the ambience is free | Seattle Times Newspaper: "Norway: Touring is expensive but the ambience is free"
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Cold War-era escape tunnels draw tourists in Berlin - USATODAY.com
Cold War-era escape tunnels draw tourists in Berlin - USATODAY.com: "Cold War-era escape tunnels draw tourists in Berlin"
Thursday, August 27, 2009
The Complete Guide To: Bavaria - Europe, Travel - The Independent
The Complete Guide To: Bavaria - Europe, Travel - The Independent: "The Complete Guide To: Bavaria"
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Travel | Seeing parts of Paris that most tourists never see | Seattle Times Newspaper
Travel | Seeing parts of Paris that most tourists never see | Seattle Times Newspaper: "Seeing parts of Paris that most tourists never see"
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Hungary: chill out on Lake Balaton | Europe - Times Online
Hungary: chill out on Lake Balaton | Europe - Times Online: "Hungary: chill out on Lake Balaton"
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Monday, July 20, 2009
Meatless in Paris: Dining for vegetarian visitors
By JENNY BARCHFIELD, Associated Press Writer Jenny Barchfield, Associated Press Writer – Sat Jul 18, 3:20 pm ET
PARIS – Cote de boeuf, foie gras, escargot. French cuisine is hardly the stuff of vegetarians' dreams.
In Paris restaurants, vegetarians often are met with looks of pity, headshaking incomprehension, even snorts of disgust. Eating out can mean endless "salades au chevre chaud," the warm goat cheese salads that are the only reliable meat-free menu item.
But veggie visitors need not despair.
Tasty meatless dining is possible here, where choices include a Michelin-starred establishment renowned for garden-fresh vegetable dishes, tiny tofu joints and restaurants dedicated exclusively to all things cheese.
___
THREE-STAR VEGETABLES
At L'Arpege, vegetables are the centerpiece — literally. All the tables in this chic restaurant are adorned not with a tasteful floral arrangement but with ripe vegetables, like artfully sculpted crookneck squash or bouquets of asparagus stalks.
One of just 26 restaurants in France with a top, three-star rating by the Michelin Guide — the country's culinary bible — L'Arpege is the only one dedicated to vegetables.
Its most celebrated dishes include "tomate confite aux douze saveurs," a stuffed, preserved tomato, and "l'oeuf fermier de la Bigottiere en chaud et froid," a concoction of egg yolk, whipped cream and maple syrup served in the eggshell as an appetizer.
FULL STORY
Looking for France Vacations? Check Us Out
PARIS – Cote de boeuf, foie gras, escargot. French cuisine is hardly the stuff of vegetarians' dreams.
In Paris restaurants, vegetarians often are met with looks of pity, headshaking incomprehension, even snorts of disgust. Eating out can mean endless "salades au chevre chaud," the warm goat cheese salads that are the only reliable meat-free menu item.
But veggie visitors need not despair.
Tasty meatless dining is possible here, where choices include a Michelin-starred establishment renowned for garden-fresh vegetable dishes, tiny tofu joints and restaurants dedicated exclusively to all things cheese.
___
THREE-STAR VEGETABLES
At L'Arpege, vegetables are the centerpiece — literally. All the tables in this chic restaurant are adorned not with a tasteful floral arrangement but with ripe vegetables, like artfully sculpted crookneck squash or bouquets of asparagus stalks.
One of just 26 restaurants in France with a top, three-star rating by the Michelin Guide — the country's culinary bible — L'Arpege is the only one dedicated to vegetables.
Its most celebrated dishes include "tomate confite aux douze saveurs," a stuffed, preserved tomato, and "l'oeuf fermier de la Bigottiere en chaud et froid," a concoction of egg yolk, whipped cream and maple syrup served in the eggshell as an appetizer.
FULL STORY
Looking for France Vacations? Check Us Out
Friday, May 29, 2009
Ireland: lose yourself in the wilds of Mayo
Telegraph.co.uk
By Liz Linehan
Last Updated: 12:57PM BST 28 May 2009
The air is mild, the rain soft, and the pubs and the people as warm and welcoming as you will find anywhere in the world – and they have an unrivalled capacity for the "craic". A short break in County Mayo is a perfect antidote to the draining stresses of urban life.
During the Great Famine, more people emigrated from Mayo, in the far west of Ireland, than from any other county. On a stormy day, of which there are plenty, this sobering historical fact is understandable. It is the most desolate of landscapes, with mile after mile of boggy, tussocky ground, mis-shapen hills, and meandering coastline. But, when the weather fronts that power in from the Atlantic take pause and the sun struggles through, the county is transformed.
Mayo is still wild but dramatically beautiful, too. You'll be enchanted by its myriad rainbows, deserted beaches, white-capped seascape, isolated farms, empty roads, tiny harbours and pitch-black loughs.
Travel by...
Plane. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from London Luton, Liverpool, East Midlands and Bristol to Ireland West Airport Knock from £80. Hire cars are available from www.novacarhire.com
Stay at...
The four-star Mount Falcon Country House Hotel and Spa in Ballina (00353 96 74472, www.mountfalcon.com), and enjoy baronial chic in a romantic setting on the River Moy. The house was commissioned in 1872 by Utred Knox for his new bride, Nina Knox-Gore, a woman so "special that she deserved to live in a castle". From the Thirties onwards, it developed a reputation as one of the best shooting and fishing lodges in Ireland, and was a favourite venue of celebrities including Vivien Leigh and Peter Sellers. Recently refurbished, it is attracting new fans such as Tiger Woods and Nick Faldo. Two nights' accommodation in a superior room with full Irish breakfast, and with one table d'hôte evening meal, costs from 159 euros per person sharing. For B & Bs, hostels, guesthouses, and more hotels, see www.mayo-bnb.com
Spend the morning...
Read FULL STORY
Looking for Ireland Vacations? Contact us at World Travel Warehouse for your trip quote.
By Liz Linehan
Last Updated: 12:57PM BST 28 May 2009
The air is mild, the rain soft, and the pubs and the people as warm and welcoming as you will find anywhere in the world – and they have an unrivalled capacity for the "craic". A short break in County Mayo is a perfect antidote to the draining stresses of urban life.
During the Great Famine, more people emigrated from Mayo, in the far west of Ireland, than from any other county. On a stormy day, of which there are plenty, this sobering historical fact is understandable. It is the most desolate of landscapes, with mile after mile of boggy, tussocky ground, mis-shapen hills, and meandering coastline. But, when the weather fronts that power in from the Atlantic take pause and the sun struggles through, the county is transformed.
Mayo is still wild but dramatically beautiful, too. You'll be enchanted by its myriad rainbows, deserted beaches, white-capped seascape, isolated farms, empty roads, tiny harbours and pitch-black loughs.
Travel by...
Plane. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from London Luton, Liverpool, East Midlands and Bristol to Ireland West Airport Knock from £80. Hire cars are available from www.novacarhire.com
Stay at...
The four-star Mount Falcon Country House Hotel and Spa in Ballina (00353 96 74472, www.mountfalcon.com), and enjoy baronial chic in a romantic setting on the River Moy. The house was commissioned in 1872 by Utred Knox for his new bride, Nina Knox-Gore, a woman so "special that she deserved to live in a castle". From the Thirties onwards, it developed a reputation as one of the best shooting and fishing lodges in Ireland, and was a favourite venue of celebrities including Vivien Leigh and Peter Sellers. Recently refurbished, it is attracting new fans such as Tiger Woods and Nick Faldo. Two nights' accommodation in a superior room with full Irish breakfast, and with one table d'hôte evening meal, costs from 159 euros per person sharing. For B & Bs, hostels, guesthouses, and more hotels, see www.mayo-bnb.com
Spend the morning...
Read FULL STORY
Looking for Ireland Vacations? Contact us at World Travel Warehouse for your trip quote.
Friday, May 22, 2009
36 Hours in Prague, Czech Republic
New York Times Travel Section
THE bad news about Prague is that your guidebook is probably already out of date, as some of its brightest and best attractions have appeared only in the last couple of years and several old favorites have been recently renovated, redecorated or otherwise renewed. The good news is that you now have another reason to go off the beaten track and explore the city’s courtyards and cobblestone lanes. With luck, you’ll find something that no one else has discovered.
Friday
3 p.m.
1) GREAT GLASS
The soaring stained-glass windows of St. Vitus Cathedral have inspired generations of the faithful and visitors alike. For an up-close glimpse of original windows and the master craftsmen who made them, visit Old Town’s overlooked Umelecke Sklenarstvi Jiricka-Coufal (U Milosrdnych 14; 420-737-666-851; www.vitraz.cz), an “artisanal glassworks” where some of the cathedral’s windows were produced and are now restored. Replicas of historical windows are available for purchase. A reproduction of a medieval window depicting Charlemagne, resplendent in knight’s armor and wielding a sword, costs 30,000 koruna (about $1,500 at 20 koruna to $1).
7 p.m.
2) DINING HOUSE
One of Prague’s most prominent modern constructions is the Dancing House, a curvy riverfront building designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic, resembling a couple — often called Fred and Ginger — in midstep. In March, the restaurant Céleste (Rasinovo Nabrezi 80; 420-221-984-160; www.celesterestaurant.cz) opened on the top floor of the building, with views of the river and Prague Castle. Served alongside the panoramic scene are the inventive creations of Gwendal Le Ruyet, like an intensely flavored lettuce velouté, with chunks of garlicky escargots and aromatic tarragon foam, costing 275 koruna; a recent entree of skate in a light green crab sauce was 590 koruna.
Read the Rest
Interested in Prague Vacations?
Check out World Travel Warehouse's Prague Vacations Page
THE bad news about Prague is that your guidebook is probably already out of date, as some of its brightest and best attractions have appeared only in the last couple of years and several old favorites have been recently renovated, redecorated or otherwise renewed. The good news is that you now have another reason to go off the beaten track and explore the city’s courtyards and cobblestone lanes. With luck, you’ll find something that no one else has discovered.
Friday
3 p.m.
1) GREAT GLASS
The soaring stained-glass windows of St. Vitus Cathedral have inspired generations of the faithful and visitors alike. For an up-close glimpse of original windows and the master craftsmen who made them, visit Old Town’s overlooked Umelecke Sklenarstvi Jiricka-Coufal (U Milosrdnych 14; 420-737-666-851; www.vitraz.cz), an “artisanal glassworks” where some of the cathedral’s windows were produced and are now restored. Replicas of historical windows are available for purchase. A reproduction of a medieval window depicting Charlemagne, resplendent in knight’s armor and wielding a sword, costs 30,000 koruna (about $1,500 at 20 koruna to $1).
7 p.m.
2) DINING HOUSE
One of Prague’s most prominent modern constructions is the Dancing House, a curvy riverfront building designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic, resembling a couple — often called Fred and Ginger — in midstep. In March, the restaurant Céleste (Rasinovo Nabrezi 80; 420-221-984-160; www.celesterestaurant.cz) opened on the top floor of the building, with views of the river and Prague Castle. Served alongside the panoramic scene are the inventive creations of Gwendal Le Ruyet, like an intensely flavored lettuce velouté, with chunks of garlicky escargots and aromatic tarragon foam, costing 275 koruna; a recent entree of skate in a light green crab sauce was 590 koruna.
Read the Rest
Interested in Prague Vacations?
Check out World Travel Warehouse's Prague Vacations Page
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
10 free things to do in Europe this summer
YAHOO News
NEW YORK – If you're taking advantage of the relatively strong dollar this year by heading to Europe, you'll be looking for ways to save even more when you get there. Here is a list of 10 free and fun things to do in Europe, compiled by the European Travel Commission:
In Madrid, the Palace of Liria, the 18th century residence of the Duchess of Alba at Calle Princesa 20, offers a collection of Spanish art, along with Flemish, German, Dutch, Italian, English and French paintings, with guided tours Fridays at 10 a.m., 11 a.m. and noon.
Rome's picturesque Trastevere area on the Tiber's west bank, a charming and colorful neighborhood, hosts a festival the European Travel Commission describes as "Fellini-esque" for eight days in the second half of July, the Festa di Noantri, with a religious procession, food and entertainment.
In Leipzig, Germany, Porsche gives free factory tours where you can see cars like the Cayenne and the new Panamera assembled on antiseptically clean floors. The tour includes a museum with exhibits covering Porsche history. If you feel like upgrading your free tour, various packages for purchase include lunch and even driving experiences on a track. Details at http://www.porsche-leipzig.de.
In Paris, the Friday Night Fever — http://www.pari-roller.com — is a mass group tour by inline skaters of the city at night. Meeting point is Place Raoul Dautry in the 14th Arrondissement, between the Montparnasse office tower and the Paris-Montparnasse train station, at 10 p.m. The route varies every week but always covers roughly 19 miles and returns to the starting point at 1 a.m.
Visit a sculpture park in Oslo with more than 200 works by Norway's most famous sculptor, Gustav Vigeland. The figures depict people in all stages of life and various emotions; details at http://www.vigeland.museum.no.
In Lisbon, the Gulbenkian Museum houses a magnificent collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian and European art. Exhibits include Japanese prints, Persian tapestries and European paintings from Rembrandt to Rubens to Renoir.
Sandeman's New Europe tour company is offering walking tours of nine European cities — including Paris, Madrid, London and Berlin — free of charge except for optional tipping. The latest addition to the list is a three-hour tour of Prague. Details at http://www.sandemans-new.com.
Zurich is known as an expensive city, but a visit to the Church of Our Lady (Fraumunster) is free and the13th century building includes two modern art treasures: a large stained-glass window done by the artist Alberto Giacometti in the 1940s, along with five stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall in 1970.
A monument to Frank Zappa, creator of the 1960s band the Mothers of Invention, can be found in Vilnius, Lithuania. Zappa is of Lithuanian descent, and the monument is located in an area known as Uzupis, known for its countercultural leanings, cafes, galleries and other artists' hangouts.
In Amsterdam, at the Wooden Shoe Factory, you can watch typical Dutch wooden shoes being hand carved and painted while learning the lore behind them, which dates to the 14th century. Details at http://www.woodenshoefactory.com.
Need help with your Europe Travel Plans this summer? Contact World Travel Warehouse for no-cost advice and travel assistance
NEW YORK – If you're taking advantage of the relatively strong dollar this year by heading to Europe, you'll be looking for ways to save even more when you get there. Here is a list of 10 free and fun things to do in Europe, compiled by the European Travel Commission:
In Madrid, the Palace of Liria, the 18th century residence of the Duchess of Alba at Calle Princesa 20, offers a collection of Spanish art, along with Flemish, German, Dutch, Italian, English and French paintings, with guided tours Fridays at 10 a.m., 11 a.m. and noon.
Rome's picturesque Trastevere area on the Tiber's west bank, a charming and colorful neighborhood, hosts a festival the European Travel Commission describes as "Fellini-esque" for eight days in the second half of July, the Festa di Noantri, with a religious procession, food and entertainment.
In Leipzig, Germany, Porsche gives free factory tours where you can see cars like the Cayenne and the new Panamera assembled on antiseptically clean floors. The tour includes a museum with exhibits covering Porsche history. If you feel like upgrading your free tour, various packages for purchase include lunch and even driving experiences on a track. Details at http://www.porsche-leipzig.de.
In Paris, the Friday Night Fever — http://www.pari-roller.com — is a mass group tour by inline skaters of the city at night. Meeting point is Place Raoul Dautry in the 14th Arrondissement, between the Montparnasse office tower and the Paris-Montparnasse train station, at 10 p.m. The route varies every week but always covers roughly 19 miles and returns to the starting point at 1 a.m.
Visit a sculpture park in Oslo with more than 200 works by Norway's most famous sculptor, Gustav Vigeland. The figures depict people in all stages of life and various emotions; details at http://www.vigeland.museum.no.
In Lisbon, the Gulbenkian Museum houses a magnificent collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian and European art. Exhibits include Japanese prints, Persian tapestries and European paintings from Rembrandt to Rubens to Renoir.
Sandeman's New Europe tour company is offering walking tours of nine European cities — including Paris, Madrid, London and Berlin — free of charge except for optional tipping. The latest addition to the list is a three-hour tour of Prague. Details at http://www.sandemans-new.com.
Zurich is known as an expensive city, but a visit to the Church of Our Lady (Fraumunster) is free and the13th century building includes two modern art treasures: a large stained-glass window done by the artist Alberto Giacometti in the 1940s, along with five stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall in 1970.
A monument to Frank Zappa, creator of the 1960s band the Mothers of Invention, can be found in Vilnius, Lithuania. Zappa is of Lithuanian descent, and the monument is located in an area known as Uzupis, known for its countercultural leanings, cafes, galleries and other artists' hangouts.
In Amsterdam, at the Wooden Shoe Factory, you can watch typical Dutch wooden shoes being hand carved and painted while learning the lore behind them, which dates to the 14th century. Details at http://www.woodenshoefactory.com.
Need help with your Europe Travel Plans this summer? Contact World Travel Warehouse for no-cost advice and travel assistance
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Save or Splurge: Amsterdam
The New York Times - Travel Section
Amsterdam on $250 a Day
SLEEP Assuming that Amsterdam’s rollicking hostel scene isn’t for you, the best bets for cheap accommodation are mostly found outside the old city center. Hotel Linda (Stadhouderskade 130; 31-20-673-8739; www.hotellinda.nl) is a pleasant spot in the charming Pijp neighborhood. It’s convenient (a number of tram lines are a short walk away) and most of the hotel’s 40 rooms are more spacious than you’d expect. (As with most buildings on Amsterdam’s canals, the stairs are comically steep.) Cost: Prices for a double room start at 150 euros on weekends, but on weekdays are as low as 75 euros.
EAT The complicated, layered history of the Netherlands’ colonial past has given birth to Amsterdam’s amazing variety of cuisine, as well as every sort of hybrid. Start with lunch at Nam Kee (Zeedijk 111-113; 31-20-624-3470; www.namkee.net), a city icon that serves delicious Chinese fare like Peking duck with pancakes and scallions (5.35 euros) and giant steamed oysters in black bean sauce (2.50 euros each; you’ll need at least two for each diner) — the latter a signature dish that inspired a Dutch novel and movie. Then continue the global feast with dinner at Kam Yin (Warmoesstraat 6; 31-20-625-3115), which serves Surinamese-Chinese cuisine; the plain restaurant’s dizzying menu includes everything from curries to chop suey. The waitress will tell you all the rotis are good, but the frugal choice is the chicken special (5 euros): succulent dark meat served with doughy flatbread, string beans and a mildly spicy broth. Other tasty options include the fried rice with pork belly, roast pork and chicken (7 euros) and the spicy fried noodles with pork and prawns (10 euros). Cost: About 10.35 euros for lunch, 22 euros for dinner, for a total of 32.35 euros.
SHOP There are multiple outdoor markets every day in Amsterdam. Albert Cuypmarkt is probably the city’s most famous cheap shopping option, but Dappermarkt (Dapperstraat 279; 31-20-694-7495; www.dappermarkt.nl), on the eastern side of the city, is bigger and more varied. Five blocks long, the market attracts all varieties of working-class shoppers, including North Africans, Turks and Southeast Asians. It seems as if anything you could possibly need in Amsterdam is sold here: bike locks, plants, clothes, shoes, cheese, fresh herbs and vegetables. Fortify yourself with a smoked herring or mackerel sandwich (2.50 euros) and pick up a colorful wool scarf (5 euros). Cost of items: 7.50 euros.
PARTY Brown bars, cozy neighborhood watering holes, are an Amsterdam staple. The moniker comes from the color the walls take on after years of tobacco staining. Cafe de Pels (Huidenstraat 25; 31-20-622-9037), in the Nine Streets area, is a brown bar that hasn’t quite browned yet: it’s a pleasant spot that attracts a young, intellectual crowd who can get quite boisterous in both the after-work and late-night hours. Cost of a Leffe dubbel beer (3.70 euros) and small plates of cheese and pâté (3 euros each): about 10 euros.
SAVE Biking, a local way of life, is also a great — and cheap — way to see the city. Starbikes (De Ruyterkade 127; 31-20-620-3215; www.starbikesrental.com) is a convenient and reasonable outfitter. Located just east of the Centraal Station, Starbikes rents what Amsterdamers call “granny bikes” — two-wheelers in which you press the pedals backward to slow or stop. Generator lighting for nighttime riding and a sturdy lock are included, and the pleasant owners will happily provide suggested routes and tips. Cost for a full day, with a 7 p.m. drop-off: 7 euros.
TOTAL COST 131.85 euros, or about $178 at $1.35 to the euro.
On $1000 a Day
SLEEP Though it opened in 2007, the Grand Hotel Amrâth (Prins Hendrikkade 108; 31-20-552-0000; www.amrathamsterdam.com) has a serious history behind it. The hulking waterfront building that houses the hotel was built in the early 20th century and served for decades as the Shipping House, the home base for Amsterdam’s maritime activity. Indeed, though the interior has been renovated to show off a gorgeous Art Nouveau décor, one can easily imagine bureaucrats navigating the labyrinthine hallways. Deluxe rooms, many overlooking the city or the port, have high ceilings and two-tone wood walls that echo the hotel’s nautical theme. Cost: deluxe rooms start at 209 euros.
Contact World Travel Warehouse for your Amsterdam Travel Planning
Read FULL STORY
Amsterdam on $250 a Day
SLEEP Assuming that Amsterdam’s rollicking hostel scene isn’t for you, the best bets for cheap accommodation are mostly found outside the old city center. Hotel Linda (Stadhouderskade 130; 31-20-673-8739; www.hotellinda.nl) is a pleasant spot in the charming Pijp neighborhood. It’s convenient (a number of tram lines are a short walk away) and most of the hotel’s 40 rooms are more spacious than you’d expect. (As with most buildings on Amsterdam’s canals, the stairs are comically steep.) Cost: Prices for a double room start at 150 euros on weekends, but on weekdays are as low as 75 euros.
EAT The complicated, layered history of the Netherlands’ colonial past has given birth to Amsterdam’s amazing variety of cuisine, as well as every sort of hybrid. Start with lunch at Nam Kee (Zeedijk 111-113; 31-20-624-3470; www.namkee.net), a city icon that serves delicious Chinese fare like Peking duck with pancakes and scallions (5.35 euros) and giant steamed oysters in black bean sauce (2.50 euros each; you’ll need at least two for each diner) — the latter a signature dish that inspired a Dutch novel and movie. Then continue the global feast with dinner at Kam Yin (Warmoesstraat 6; 31-20-625-3115), which serves Surinamese-Chinese cuisine; the plain restaurant’s dizzying menu includes everything from curries to chop suey. The waitress will tell you all the rotis are good, but the frugal choice is the chicken special (5 euros): succulent dark meat served with doughy flatbread, string beans and a mildly spicy broth. Other tasty options include the fried rice with pork belly, roast pork and chicken (7 euros) and the spicy fried noodles with pork and prawns (10 euros). Cost: About 10.35 euros for lunch, 22 euros for dinner, for a total of 32.35 euros.
SHOP There are multiple outdoor markets every day in Amsterdam. Albert Cuypmarkt is probably the city’s most famous cheap shopping option, but Dappermarkt (Dapperstraat 279; 31-20-694-7495; www.dappermarkt.nl), on the eastern side of the city, is bigger and more varied. Five blocks long, the market attracts all varieties of working-class shoppers, including North Africans, Turks and Southeast Asians. It seems as if anything you could possibly need in Amsterdam is sold here: bike locks, plants, clothes, shoes, cheese, fresh herbs and vegetables. Fortify yourself with a smoked herring or mackerel sandwich (2.50 euros) and pick up a colorful wool scarf (5 euros). Cost of items: 7.50 euros.
PARTY Brown bars, cozy neighborhood watering holes, are an Amsterdam staple. The moniker comes from the color the walls take on after years of tobacco staining. Cafe de Pels (Huidenstraat 25; 31-20-622-9037), in the Nine Streets area, is a brown bar that hasn’t quite browned yet: it’s a pleasant spot that attracts a young, intellectual crowd who can get quite boisterous in both the after-work and late-night hours. Cost of a Leffe dubbel beer (3.70 euros) and small plates of cheese and pâté (3 euros each): about 10 euros.
SAVE Biking, a local way of life, is also a great — and cheap — way to see the city. Starbikes (De Ruyterkade 127; 31-20-620-3215; www.starbikesrental.com) is a convenient and reasonable outfitter. Located just east of the Centraal Station, Starbikes rents what Amsterdamers call “granny bikes” — two-wheelers in which you press the pedals backward to slow or stop. Generator lighting for nighttime riding and a sturdy lock are included, and the pleasant owners will happily provide suggested routes and tips. Cost for a full day, with a 7 p.m. drop-off: 7 euros.
TOTAL COST 131.85 euros, or about $178 at $1.35 to the euro.
On $1000 a Day
SLEEP Though it opened in 2007, the Grand Hotel Amrâth (Prins Hendrikkade 108; 31-20-552-0000; www.amrathamsterdam.com) has a serious history behind it. The hulking waterfront building that houses the hotel was built in the early 20th century and served for decades as the Shipping House, the home base for Amsterdam’s maritime activity. Indeed, though the interior has been renovated to show off a gorgeous Art Nouveau décor, one can easily imagine bureaucrats navigating the labyrinthine hallways. Deluxe rooms, many overlooking the city or the port, have high ceilings and two-tone wood walls that echo the hotel’s nautical theme. Cost: deluxe rooms start at 209 euros.
Contact World Travel Warehouse for your Amsterdam Travel Planning
Read FULL STORY
Friday, March 27, 2009
36 Hours in Majorca
The New York Times
By PENELOPE GREEN
Published: March 29, 2009
MAJORCAN summers are infamous for the swells they attract: the billionaires on their megayachts, the movie stars at their mountain estates. Michael Douglas has a house in Deià, and in nearby Sóller, there is an outpost of the Ashram, Malibu’s answer to asceticism, at which studio heads pay thousands of dollars a week to eat like vegan hippies.
Then there’s that other summer crowd, the European lads who flood the developments that spread out from lovely, medieval Palma and make the beach scenes there cautionary tales of the evils of alcohol. During the off-season, which runs from fall to early summer, however, this mountainous, gnarled island is largely yours. Set yourself up with a rental car (there’s a lot of driving to be done on this island) and prepare to be hypnotized by ancient terraced landscapes with twisted olive trees, the tiny medieval villages and the extraordinary food and wine.
...
For a feel for the countryside, consider the sonorous, majestic Gran Hotel Son Net (Calle Castillo Sonnet s/n, Puigpunyent; 34-971-147-000; www.sonnet.es) in the village of Puigpunyent, just northwest of Palma, which is set in a 17th-century finca, or estate. With its stone walls, its Hockneys and Chagalls, and its velvet accouterments, it is solemnly luxurious, and takes itself very, very seriously. It is also alarmingly expensive: Rates range from 340 euros for a classic room (a perfectly adequate though dimly lighted room with two twin beds overlooking the front drive with a bathroom as big as the room itself, like all the Son Net bathrooms) to 1,050 euros for the royal suites, which are entire apartments with their own gardens.
FULL STORY
By PENELOPE GREEN
Published: March 29, 2009
MAJORCAN summers are infamous for the swells they attract: the billionaires on their megayachts, the movie stars at their mountain estates. Michael Douglas has a house in Deià, and in nearby Sóller, there is an outpost of the Ashram, Malibu’s answer to asceticism, at which studio heads pay thousands of dollars a week to eat like vegan hippies.
Then there’s that other summer crowd, the European lads who flood the developments that spread out from lovely, medieval Palma and make the beach scenes there cautionary tales of the evils of alcohol. During the off-season, which runs from fall to early summer, however, this mountainous, gnarled island is largely yours. Set yourself up with a rental car (there’s a lot of driving to be done on this island) and prepare to be hypnotized by ancient terraced landscapes with twisted olive trees, the tiny medieval villages and the extraordinary food and wine.
...
For a feel for the countryside, consider the sonorous, majestic Gran Hotel Son Net (Calle Castillo Sonnet s/n, Puigpunyent; 34-971-147-000; www.sonnet.es) in the village of Puigpunyent, just northwest of Palma, which is set in a 17th-century finca, or estate. With its stone walls, its Hockneys and Chagalls, and its velvet accouterments, it is solemnly luxurious, and takes itself very, very seriously. It is also alarmingly expensive: Rates range from 340 euros for a classic room (a perfectly adequate though dimly lighted room with two twin beds overlooking the front drive with a bathroom as big as the room itself, like all the Son Net bathrooms) to 1,050 euros for the royal suites, which are entire apartments with their own gardens.
FULL STORY
Monday, March 23, 2009
Insider’s guide to cruising Europe
Advice, tips, tricks and, most importantly, lessons learned
By Carolyn Spencer Brown
MSNBC - updated 12:47 p.m. ET March 22, 2009
It's no secret that cruising is an exceptional way to see Europe. First of all, seeing Europe by cruise is cheaper than touring by land.
Cruise fares typically cover accommodations, meals in main dining venues, kids club activities and entertainment, from enrichment classes to theatrical performances (though it's important to note the extras, such as spa treatments, meals in boutique restaurants, fitness classes, casino gambling and cocktails and specialty drinks).
And don't forget, too, that cruise fares include the cost of transportation between ports. On any given voyage, you'll visit a variety of European cities (in some cases covering three or more countries). Some cruises combine two regions (such as Western Europe and the Baltic or the Eastern and Western Mediterranean). Most include what we classify as the “greatest hits” cities of Europe (such as Civitavecchia for Rome, Venice, Stockholm, Barcelona and Piraeus for Athens); some of these also offer tantalizing tastes of lesser-known places (including Tunisia's Tunis, Malta's Valletta and Estonia's Tallinn).
FULL STORY
By Carolyn Spencer Brown
MSNBC - updated 12:47 p.m. ET March 22, 2009
It's no secret that cruising is an exceptional way to see Europe. First of all, seeing Europe by cruise is cheaper than touring by land.
Cruise fares typically cover accommodations, meals in main dining venues, kids club activities and entertainment, from enrichment classes to theatrical performances (though it's important to note the extras, such as spa treatments, meals in boutique restaurants, fitness classes, casino gambling and cocktails and specialty drinks).
And don't forget, too, that cruise fares include the cost of transportation between ports. On any given voyage, you'll visit a variety of European cities (in some cases covering three or more countries). Some cruises combine two regions (such as Western Europe and the Baltic or the Eastern and Western Mediterranean). Most include what we classify as the “greatest hits” cities of Europe (such as Civitavecchia for Rome, Venice, Stockholm, Barcelona and Piraeus for Athens); some of these also offer tantalizing tastes of lesser-known places (including Tunisia's Tunis, Malta's Valletta and Estonia's Tallinn).
FULL STORY
Sunday, March 22, 2009
22 Affordable European Hotels
Travel + LeisureFrom April 2009
By Alexander Basek, Anya von Bremzen, David Farley, Catesby Holmes, Tina Isaac, Stirling Kelso, Soren Larson, Alexandra Marshall, Ralph Martin, Clark Mitchell, Shane Mitchell, Maria Shollenbarger, Bree Sposato, Valerie Waterhouse and Jennifer Welbel
When it comes to European hotels, the word value used to conjure up images of shoebox-sized spaces located depressingly near the train station. No longer. A new breed of affordable lodging has been popping up all around the Continent, and these ultra-modern digs offer plenty of comfort, stylishness, and amenities alongside their attractive price tags.
Desirable options exist even in notoriously expensive and popular destinations like London and Paris. At the London Bridge Hotel, you can set up a base near the Tate Modern and Borough Market while taking advantage of a plugged-in, 24-hour concierge—all for rates that start at a mere $144. Across the Channel, you’ll find a similarly convenient location in Paris—an easy walk from the Louvre—with the Hôtel Thérèse, where the quirky and charming rooms (starting at $200) are decorated with Parisian paintings from local flea markets.
London
London Bridge Hotel, $144
At the London Bridge Hotel, 400-thread-count sheets, Miller Harris bath products, and at-the-ready service mean that a stay next to the Tower Bridge will be cool and comfortable. The hotel is located in the small neighborhood of Southwark, just a quick walk from the Tate Modern, the Globe Theatre, and the epicenter of London’s locavore movement, Borough Market. The 24-hour concierge desk is worth a visit, too: veteran staffers, who come from such impeccable London properties as the InterContinental Park Lane and the Mayfair, are able to score coveted seats to Arsenal soccer games and tickets for concerts at the O2 arena.
Dublin
La Stampa Hotel & Mandala Spa, $195
Standing outside on orderly Dawson Street, you’d never imagine the Indo-Asian fantasy that lies behind the door of this Georgian manse. La Stampa Hotel & Mandala Spa is flamboyantly chic, its 37 rooms adorned with Balinese wall screens, teak furniture, potted palms, gold moldings, and mirrors. For dinner, it’s prawn toasts and pad thai in the glow of lanterns at Tiger Becs, one of the city’s most popular Thai restaurants.
Paris
Hôtel Amour, $140
What you know of the Ninth Arrondissement is still generally true—this boho district is no St.-Germain—but gentrification has struck, and the Hôtel Amour is an example of how much. Located on a slender corridor that feels more St.-Georges than Quartier Pigalle, the hotel is the brainchild of three nightlife aficionados who know their target audience well (think iPhone-toting media types) and chose their amenities accordingly. You’ll find cheeky framed photographs in the restaurant, rooms with toys from Kidrobot, and even a foosball table in the basement. Want more proof that the area is ready for travelers? Rue des Martyrs, around the corner from the hotel, has become the spot to shop for fine cheeses and groceries.
Paris
Hôtel Thérèse, $200
Hôtel Thérèse is set in an 18th-century town house on a quiet side street in the heart of the First Arrondissement. On the Right Bank, blocks from the Louvre, the Thérèse has 43 rooms that are on the petite side, but budding hotel doyenne Sylvie de Lattre (the woman behind another T+L favorite, the Hôtel Verneuil, in St.-Germain) has established an uncluttered aesthetic and filled the rooms with Parisian paintings garnered from local flea markets.
Lisbon
Fontana Park Hotel, $195
Portuguese architect Francisco Aires Mateus renovated a 1908 iron factory to create the Fontana Park Hotel. Keeping its exterior intact, he gutted the building to make way for Zen-like interiors. Open expanses, including the Bonsai restaurant and Fontana bar, are punctuated by sharply angled glass staircases and sheaths of hammered ironwork—homages to the building’s first life. The 139 simple black-and-white rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows that provide panoramic views of the city.
Read About All 22 Hotels
By Alexander Basek, Anya von Bremzen, David Farley, Catesby Holmes, Tina Isaac, Stirling Kelso, Soren Larson, Alexandra Marshall, Ralph Martin, Clark Mitchell, Shane Mitchell, Maria Shollenbarger, Bree Sposato, Valerie Waterhouse and Jennifer Welbel
When it comes to European hotels, the word value used to conjure up images of shoebox-sized spaces located depressingly near the train station. No longer. A new breed of affordable lodging has been popping up all around the Continent, and these ultra-modern digs offer plenty of comfort, stylishness, and amenities alongside their attractive price tags.
Desirable options exist even in notoriously expensive and popular destinations like London and Paris. At the London Bridge Hotel, you can set up a base near the Tate Modern and Borough Market while taking advantage of a plugged-in, 24-hour concierge—all for rates that start at a mere $144. Across the Channel, you’ll find a similarly convenient location in Paris—an easy walk from the Louvre—with the Hôtel Thérèse, where the quirky and charming rooms (starting at $200) are decorated with Parisian paintings from local flea markets.
London
London Bridge Hotel, $144
At the London Bridge Hotel, 400-thread-count sheets, Miller Harris bath products, and at-the-ready service mean that a stay next to the Tower Bridge will be cool and comfortable. The hotel is located in the small neighborhood of Southwark, just a quick walk from the Tate Modern, the Globe Theatre, and the epicenter of London’s locavore movement, Borough Market. The 24-hour concierge desk is worth a visit, too: veteran staffers, who come from such impeccable London properties as the InterContinental Park Lane and the Mayfair, are able to score coveted seats to Arsenal soccer games and tickets for concerts at the O2 arena.
Dublin
La Stampa Hotel & Mandala Spa, $195
Standing outside on orderly Dawson Street, you’d never imagine the Indo-Asian fantasy that lies behind the door of this Georgian manse. La Stampa Hotel & Mandala Spa is flamboyantly chic, its 37 rooms adorned with Balinese wall screens, teak furniture, potted palms, gold moldings, and mirrors. For dinner, it’s prawn toasts and pad thai in the glow of lanterns at Tiger Becs, one of the city’s most popular Thai restaurants.
Paris
Hôtel Amour, $140
What you know of the Ninth Arrondissement is still generally true—this boho district is no St.-Germain—but gentrification has struck, and the Hôtel Amour is an example of how much. Located on a slender corridor that feels more St.-Georges than Quartier Pigalle, the hotel is the brainchild of three nightlife aficionados who know their target audience well (think iPhone-toting media types) and chose their amenities accordingly. You’ll find cheeky framed photographs in the restaurant, rooms with toys from Kidrobot, and even a foosball table in the basement. Want more proof that the area is ready for travelers? Rue des Martyrs, around the corner from the hotel, has become the spot to shop for fine cheeses and groceries.
Paris
Hôtel Thérèse, $200
Hôtel Thérèse is set in an 18th-century town house on a quiet side street in the heart of the First Arrondissement. On the Right Bank, blocks from the Louvre, the Thérèse has 43 rooms that are on the petite side, but budding hotel doyenne Sylvie de Lattre (the woman behind another T+L favorite, the Hôtel Verneuil, in St.-Germain) has established an uncluttered aesthetic and filled the rooms with Parisian paintings garnered from local flea markets.
Lisbon
Fontana Park Hotel, $195
Portuguese architect Francisco Aires Mateus renovated a 1908 iron factory to create the Fontana Park Hotel. Keeping its exterior intact, he gutted the building to make way for Zen-like interiors. Open expanses, including the Bonsai restaurant and Fontana bar, are punctuated by sharply angled glass staircases and sheaths of hammered ironwork—homages to the building’s first life. The 139 simple black-and-white rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows that provide panoramic views of the city.
Read About All 22 Hotels
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
11 Money-Saving European Travel Tips
New air routes, hotels, and booking strategies make European travel almost as cheap as staying home.
Travel + Leisure Articles
April 2009
Book New Plane Routes
Before last year’s Open Skies agreement, an air-transport pact that cleared the way for more flights between the United States and Europe, American Airlines (aa.com) and United Airlines (united.com) were the only domestic carriers flying into London Heathrow from the U.S. Today, Continental (continental.com), Delta (delta.com), Northwest (nwa.com), and US Airways (usairways.com) all have daily flights into Heathrow. In addition, a few international airlines have established links from European hubs other than their own to the U.S.; Air France (airfrance.com) will begin a Heathrow-to-JFK flight this summer. And thanks to these additional routes, analysts expect prices to become more competitive. Smaller airports are also benefiting from the treaty. Next month, US Airways will be adding three routes: from Charlotte, North Carolina, to Paris, and from Philadelphia to Oslo and Birmingham, England. In June, Delta is planning to introduce flights from Pittsburgh to Paris and Detroit to Rome.
Fly With Low-Cost Airlines
As travelers become more budget-conscious, discount European carriers are expanding their networks to meet the demand. Ryanair (ryanair.com) is leading the way with 179 new routes in 2009, including flights from Edinburgh to Malta and Oslo to Bologna. Rival EasyJet (easyjet.com) plans to add at least 30 new itineraries this year—among them London Gatwick to Copenhagen and Berlin to Dubrovnik. We found summer fares for the new Berlin-to-Dubrovnik flight for as low as $40 one-way, and the deals should continue through the fall.
Check Out New, Affordable Airlines
This past February, Lufthansa launched Lufthansa Italia (lufthansa.com). The carrier offers nonstop connections between Milan Malpensa and eight European destinations, including Barcelona and Madrid, making travel between Italy and neighboring countries more accessible after Alitalia reduced its service from Malpensa last year. At press time, we found a round-trip ticket from Milan to Barcelona for $112.
Read The Rest
Travel + Leisure Articles
April 2009
Book New Plane Routes
Before last year’s Open Skies agreement, an air-transport pact that cleared the way for more flights between the United States and Europe, American Airlines (aa.com) and United Airlines (united.com) were the only domestic carriers flying into London Heathrow from the U.S. Today, Continental (continental.com), Delta (delta.com), Northwest (nwa.com), and US Airways (usairways.com) all have daily flights into Heathrow. In addition, a few international airlines have established links from European hubs other than their own to the U.S.; Air France (airfrance.com) will begin a Heathrow-to-JFK flight this summer. And thanks to these additional routes, analysts expect prices to become more competitive. Smaller airports are also benefiting from the treaty. Next month, US Airways will be adding three routes: from Charlotte, North Carolina, to Paris, and from Philadelphia to Oslo and Birmingham, England. In June, Delta is planning to introduce flights from Pittsburgh to Paris and Detroit to Rome.
Fly With Low-Cost Airlines
As travelers become more budget-conscious, discount European carriers are expanding their networks to meet the demand. Ryanair (ryanair.com) is leading the way with 179 new routes in 2009, including flights from Edinburgh to Malta and Oslo to Bologna. Rival EasyJet (easyjet.com) plans to add at least 30 new itineraries this year—among them London Gatwick to Copenhagen and Berlin to Dubrovnik. We found summer fares for the new Berlin-to-Dubrovnik flight for as low as $40 one-way, and the deals should continue through the fall.
Check Out New, Affordable Airlines
This past February, Lufthansa launched Lufthansa Italia (lufthansa.com). The carrier offers nonstop connections between Milan Malpensa and eight European destinations, including Barcelona and Madrid, making travel between Italy and neighboring countries more accessible after Alitalia reduced its service from Malpensa last year. At press time, we found a round-trip ticket from Milan to Barcelona for $112.
Read The Rest
Thursday, January 29, 2009
See London like a prince, not a pauper
Miami Herald-- EMILY RISTOW
Associated Press
London may have a deserved reputation for being royally expensive, but by taking advantage of the free museums and sights in the historic capital, tourists don't have to feel like paupers.
MUSEUMS: Most of London's major museums are free. The British Museum, the Science Museum, the Victoria & Albert and other state-supported museums have free admission every day.
SIGHTS: If you want to experience the workings of Parliament, you can sit in on debates for free. For a taste of true parliamentary banter, go to the prime minister's Question Time, which takes place Wednesdays when Parliament is in session; be prepared to wait in line.
To get an up-close look at the Tower of London without paying the US$30 (16.50 pounds) admission, go to the Ceremony of the Keys. You won't be able to go inside the tower, but you'll be part of the 700-year-old tradition of locking up each night. You need to submit a written request for tickets two to three months in advance; www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon.
THEATER: London is known for its drama but tickets for West End shows can cost over $75 (50.) To go on the cheap, purchase tickets on the day of the show at the half-price ticket booth in Leicester Square.
In summer, take in some Shakespeareat the Globe, where standing tickets will cost about $7.50 (5.) You'll get to experience the play as a groundling -- as they were called in Shakespeare's day -- and have the performance take place around you. But come prepared: You'll be standing for the whole play -- usually around three hours -- and you'll be exposed to the weather at this open air theater.
If Shakespeare's not your scene, check out the Royal Court Theatre, a two-theater venue dedicated to producing new plays. All tickets on Mondays are about $15 (10). For theatergoers under 27, $7.50 (5) tickets are available every day for plays in the downstairs theater.
FOOD: Pop into a pub for a meal and a pint. You'll get to enjoy some iconic British grub -- fish and chips, meat pies and puddings -- at a reasonable price.
London also has a wide selection of ethnic food. For inexpensive Indian food, try the Indian YMCA's dining hall near Warren Street tube station, www.indianymca.org, where you can grab dinner for around $7.50 (5).
GETTING AROUND: The cheapest way to travel is by foot. For the Underground and buses, buy an Oyster card -- an electronic card that serves as your ticket. You get reduced fares for a single trip -- down to about $3 from $8. Children under 11 ride free.
ACCOMMODATION: Budget hotels are clustered near train stations, especially Paddington, Victoria, Euston and King's Cross. The Earl's Court neighborhood is another option. Book early.
If you're traveling when the universities are on break -- roughly mid-June through September -- you can rent a room in one of their dorms; single rooms start around $55. www.wmin.ac.uk/page-5198 or /kcl.ac.uk/about/structure/admin/facser/conbro/
Associated Press
London may have a deserved reputation for being royally expensive, but by taking advantage of the free museums and sights in the historic capital, tourists don't have to feel like paupers.
MUSEUMS: Most of London's major museums are free. The British Museum, the Science Museum, the Victoria & Albert and other state-supported museums have free admission every day.
SIGHTS: If you want to experience the workings of Parliament, you can sit in on debates for free. For a taste of true parliamentary banter, go to the prime minister's Question Time, which takes place Wednesdays when Parliament is in session; be prepared to wait in line.
To get an up-close look at the Tower of London without paying the US$30 (16.50 pounds) admission, go to the Ceremony of the Keys. You won't be able to go inside the tower, but you'll be part of the 700-year-old tradition of locking up each night. You need to submit a written request for tickets two to three months in advance; www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon.
THEATER: London is known for its drama but tickets for West End shows can cost over $75 (50.) To go on the cheap, purchase tickets on the day of the show at the half-price ticket booth in Leicester Square.
In summer, take in some Shakespeareat the Globe, where standing tickets will cost about $7.50 (5.) You'll get to experience the play as a groundling -- as they were called in Shakespeare's day -- and have the performance take place around you. But come prepared: You'll be standing for the whole play -- usually around three hours -- and you'll be exposed to the weather at this open air theater.
If Shakespeare's not your scene, check out the Royal Court Theatre, a two-theater venue dedicated to producing new plays. All tickets on Mondays are about $15 (10). For theatergoers under 27, $7.50 (5) tickets are available every day for plays in the downstairs theater.
FOOD: Pop into a pub for a meal and a pint. You'll get to enjoy some iconic British grub -- fish and chips, meat pies and puddings -- at a reasonable price.
London also has a wide selection of ethnic food. For inexpensive Indian food, try the Indian YMCA's dining hall near Warren Street tube station, www.indianymca.org, where you can grab dinner for around $7.50 (5).
GETTING AROUND: The cheapest way to travel is by foot. For the Underground and buses, buy an Oyster card -- an electronic card that serves as your ticket. You get reduced fares for a single trip -- down to about $3 from $8. Children under 11 ride free.
ACCOMMODATION: Budget hotels are clustered near train stations, especially Paddington, Victoria, Euston and King's Cross. The Earl's Court neighborhood is another option. Book early.
If you're traveling when the universities are on break -- roughly mid-June through September -- you can rent a room in one of their dorms; single rooms start around $55. www.wmin.ac.uk/page-5198 or /kcl.ac.uk/about/structure/admin/facser/conbro/
Friday, January 9, 2009
36 Hours in Reykjavik, Iceland
NY Times Travel
By FRANK BRUNI
Published: January 11, 2009
A chattering woman on a barstool near mine swirls her screwdriver as if it were cabernet sauvignon, not seeming to notice the waves of orange liquid crashing over the rim. A cackling woman in a strapless black dress and a red Santa cap whirls by, glancing over her shoulder to make sure her three beer-toting, leer-throwing suitors are still there.
When I get up and start to walk toward the door, a woozy man heading in the same direction falls onto my back to use me as transport. He mumbles something in Icelandic. After riding me for about 20 feet, he collapses onto someone else. Many people notice. No one bats an eye.
It’s midnight on a Saturday, which means Reykjavik’s runtur, or pub crawl, is under way. Many bars stay open past 4 a.m. on both Friday and Saturday. And from what I can see and what I’m told, this country’s financial collapse — a sharp devaluation of the currency that has made this once prohibitively expensive destination more affordable for visitors — hasn’t emptied them a bit.
“Quieter?” laughs Elva, a bartender at the stylish club Solon, repeating part of my question to her. “Oh, no. No. People want to drink their troubles away.”
Friday
3:45 p.m.
1) WALKING BEFORE CRAWLING
Don’t dally! If it’s January or February, you don’t have much sunlight left, and you want to get your Reykjavik bearings well in advance of the overnight pub crawl, when the number and unruliness of the locals in the downtown streets, coupled with your own possible inebriation, could make navigating (or even perambulating) slightly difficult. Start on the northeastern edge of Tjornin, the pond in the center of this city of only about 120,000, which feels more like an overgrown village. Walk northeast, past the Hotel Borg and the lovely square it faces, until you hit Austurstraeti street. Hang a right and follow it as it rises uphill and becomes Laugavegur. You’ll get tantalizing peeks, to your left, of the stunning harbor.
9 p.m.
2) PUFFINS AND REINDEER
If you’re smart you’ve planned a late dinner and taken a little nap beforehand, so you don’t have to bow out of the night’s pub crawl before you’ve made a decent go of it. If you’re even smarter, you’ve thought to make a reservation at Fish Market (Adalstraeti 12; 354-578-8877; www.fishmarket.is), which fills up quickly, even in these less affluent times. It spreads over two handsome floors and, most important, has a menu that lets you know you’re in Iceland. My companion and I tried smoked puffin, which had an appealing livery quality like that of many game birds. Grilled whale meat was even more compelling: it had the appearance, texture and heft of beef, but faintly saline nuances that suggested its source was the sea. As we drank frigidly cold, excellent martinis made with Icelandic vodka, we moved on to reindeer (predictably like venison), goose and Arctic char. Although the dinner wasn’t the super-splurge it would have been six months ago, it wasn’t inexpensive. For three courses with drinks and tip, expect to pay at least 25,000 kronur for two, about $200 at the current rate of 126 kronur to the dollar; but that’s more than a third less than six months ago, when the rate was around 78 kronur to the dollar.
Read the REST
Iceland Vacations arranged by World Travel Warehouse
By FRANK BRUNI
Published: January 11, 2009
A chattering woman on a barstool near mine swirls her screwdriver as if it were cabernet sauvignon, not seeming to notice the waves of orange liquid crashing over the rim. A cackling woman in a strapless black dress and a red Santa cap whirls by, glancing over her shoulder to make sure her three beer-toting, leer-throwing suitors are still there.
When I get up and start to walk toward the door, a woozy man heading in the same direction falls onto my back to use me as transport. He mumbles something in Icelandic. After riding me for about 20 feet, he collapses onto someone else. Many people notice. No one bats an eye.
It’s midnight on a Saturday, which means Reykjavik’s runtur, or pub crawl, is under way. Many bars stay open past 4 a.m. on both Friday and Saturday. And from what I can see and what I’m told, this country’s financial collapse — a sharp devaluation of the currency that has made this once prohibitively expensive destination more affordable for visitors — hasn’t emptied them a bit.
“Quieter?” laughs Elva, a bartender at the stylish club Solon, repeating part of my question to her. “Oh, no. No. People want to drink their troubles away.”
Friday
3:45 p.m.
1) WALKING BEFORE CRAWLING
Don’t dally! If it’s January or February, you don’t have much sunlight left, and you want to get your Reykjavik bearings well in advance of the overnight pub crawl, when the number and unruliness of the locals in the downtown streets, coupled with your own possible inebriation, could make navigating (or even perambulating) slightly difficult. Start on the northeastern edge of Tjornin, the pond in the center of this city of only about 120,000, which feels more like an overgrown village. Walk northeast, past the Hotel Borg and the lovely square it faces, until you hit Austurstraeti street. Hang a right and follow it as it rises uphill and becomes Laugavegur. You’ll get tantalizing peeks, to your left, of the stunning harbor.
9 p.m.
2) PUFFINS AND REINDEER
If you’re smart you’ve planned a late dinner and taken a little nap beforehand, so you don’t have to bow out of the night’s pub crawl before you’ve made a decent go of it. If you’re even smarter, you’ve thought to make a reservation at Fish Market (Adalstraeti 12; 354-578-8877; www.fishmarket.is), which fills up quickly, even in these less affluent times. It spreads over two handsome floors and, most important, has a menu that lets you know you’re in Iceland. My companion and I tried smoked puffin, which had an appealing livery quality like that of many game birds. Grilled whale meat was even more compelling: it had the appearance, texture and heft of beef, but faintly saline nuances that suggested its source was the sea. As we drank frigidly cold, excellent martinis made with Icelandic vodka, we moved on to reindeer (predictably like venison), goose and Arctic char. Although the dinner wasn’t the super-splurge it would have been six months ago, it wasn’t inexpensive. For three courses with drinks and tip, expect to pay at least 25,000 kronur for two, about $200 at the current rate of 126 kronur to the dollar; but that’s more than a third less than six months ago, when the rate was around 78 kronur to the dollar.
Read the REST
Iceland Vacations arranged by World Travel Warehouse
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)